It’s all about the Lashes..

I qualified in Eyelash Extensions in 2011 when they first began to really take off. Since I trained the lashes have become one of the most popular treatments I offer and the quality of the lashes and adhesives has evolved dramatically. Lashes are softer and more natural and come in many more lengths, thicknesses and curls. The adhesive is far more efficient and it’s retention has certainly improved.

The questions I am asked most frequently are;

How long will they last?

How can I get more lashes?

Do they damage your natural lash?

What looks can be achieved?

I would love to answer these question for you.

How long will they last?

Eyelash extensions can last for up to 4-6 weeks when correctly applied and cared for. Regular infills every 2-3 weeks are required to maintain the lashes and extend the wear time beyond 4 – 6 weeks.

Keeping good Lash Retention

It is really difficult to list all the reasons for poor retention of lashes. There are literally hundreds of reasons for poor retention. We will advise you on the correct aftercare following your lash appointment but I will try to begin to explain some of the reasons for poor retention and how to look after your lashes.

Here are some of the reasons for poor retention:

  • Aftercare

    • Keep your lashes clean

    • Gently brush your lashes daily

    • Avoid mascara or use the salon recommended mascara

    • Have you purchased any of our aftercare retail products (I will expand on these below)

  • Naturally oily lashes – these do effect the retention of lashes as the adhesive will not bond as efficiently.

  • Medication – Many medications can alter lash retention through changes in the body chemistry. In particular, Thyroid medications can have a negative impact on lash extension longevity. Vitamin supplements that promote hair growth can also accelerate lash shedding. If you are taking any of these we would recommend more frequent infills.

  • Vitamin A or C – If the body has too much vitamin A or C then this will make the bodies sebum levels higher. Sebum is the body’s natural oil. Too much oil on the skin and hairs will break up the glue bond between the natural lashes and the extensions. Resulting in poor retention

  • Hormones and Pregnancy – Hormones in the body can greatly affect the lifespan of your eyelash extensions and cause a surge in lash loss so your eyelash extensions might not last as long while you are pregnant and after you have a baby

  • Picking or pulling at the lashes

  • Sleeping on the face – A very common reason for poor retention and one that can

    be difficult to fix as you may be unaware that you do sleep on your face but you can purchase one of our retail lash masks to sleep in or use pillows propped against the side of the body to stop you from rolling over.

  • Quality of the bond – Going to a spa and sitting in a steam room or sauna or any other heat treatments in the first 48 hours that may reduce the quality of the lash adhesive bond.

  • Using Oily products – eye creams, moisturisers, oily make up removers are typical examples of these.

How can I get more Lashes?

To begin to answer this question I will explain how your natural lashes grow and shed.

There are 3 stages of hair growth:

  • Anagen Stage – The activity and growing stage. If the client is in poor health or on medication this affects the growth of their natural lashes at this stage. The Anagen Stage normally lasts 4 – 6 weeks for lashes but it does differ from person to person.

  • Catagen Stage – The change over stage where the eyelash is gradually detaching from the follicle and where the blood and nutrients supply is reduced. This stage normally lasts 2 -3 weeks

  • Telogen Stage – This is the resting or tired phase of the hair follicle. It normally lasts between 4 -6 weeks and is where the hair is fully detached from the follicle and will fall out. The follicle remains dormant for a few weeks before a new hair emerges.

The whole growth cycle for eyelashes is around 12 weeks and at anytime there are only 40% of lashes in the Anagen phase, meaning that 60% will either be detaching (in the Catagen Stage) or lying dormant (in the Telogen Stage). Consequently an eyelash extension can last for up to 4-6 weeks when correctly applied and cared for. Regular infills every 2-3 weeks are required to maintain the lashes and extend the wear time beyond 4 – 6 weeks.

There are 3 ways to improve the natural hair growth:

  • Growth and conditioning serums

  • Massage

  • Improving the diet or taking iron supplements

Do Eyelash Extensions damage your natural lashes?

The biggest myth is that lash extensions ruin your own lashes. I am pleased to confirm that they do not ruin your natural lashes if they are correctly applied. Make sure that you do not rub your eyes, pull or rub the extensions because this can cause the lashes to shed prematurely and damage your natural lashes. You should make sure that you keep your lashes clean and hygienic and stick to Eyelash Extension friendly mascaras (more about that later) as rubbing mascara off can also damage natural lashes.

You will have read above that lashes have 3 stages of growth so it is not necessary to give your lashes a break but we will pay particular attention to your natural lashes and if we notice a change in texture or fullness we will either advise you to change your lash extension style or we may advise a break. This will give you a chance to use a nourishing serum to help with the growth and conditioning for a while to increase the natural length and density of the natural lashes.

If the Eyelash Extensions are too heavy for your natural lashes they can cause premature shedding and over time this does effect the natural growth cycle. We will advise you to reduce the thickness or change your lash style if we notice this change to your lashes.

If you have your eyelash extensions removed you may feel like your natural lashes are shorter than they were before you started along the path of eyelash extensions. This may be just that you have gotten used to longer fuller lashes with the aid of the extensions.

Eyelash Extension Curls, Thicknesses and Lengths

What looks can be achieved?

Different styles of Eyelash Extensions

Open Eye (for Small Eyes)

Placing longer lengths in the centre gives the illusion that the eye is larger in size.

Natural Eye

The lashes in the inner eye are always shortest for your comfort as well as style, while the rest of the lash line is covered with lashes one length longer, creating a very even and natural look.

Cat Eye

By following the shape of a winged eyeliner, the lengths start short in the inner corners gradually increasing halfway with the longest length sweeping out towards the outer corners.

Doll Eye

The lashes always evenly graduate from the shortest length you are using in the inner corner up to a peak with the longest lengths in the centre, then working back down in length in the outer corner.

Hybrid/Beachy

It is possible to combine Classic lash application together with Volume or Russian Lashes to create Hybrid lashes. This gives a full, on trend look with extra length scattered throughout.

Different types of Eyelash Extensions

Classic Lashes

These are simple but still the most popular style of lash extensions enjoyed by clients. A single lash is used to extend each lash giving a fuller set of lashes. It adds depth and length to the natural lash giving a ‘mascara look’ with a beautiful uniform curl. It is important to remember that you can only apply as many lash extensions as there are natural lashes. If the natural lashes are sparse and fine/weak only very fine and light lashes can be applied and these may still look wispy and not in keeping with your expectation.

Different lengths, curls and thicknesses are available depending on what look you would like to achieve.

PreMade Volume Lashes

The fastest way to achieve a volume and dramatic look. The fans are pre-made in different lengths, curl and thicknesses. There are 3D, 4D, 5D and 6D. The 6D lashes will be ultra light and fine giving a more fluffy look. 3D lashes are 3 lashes per natural lash, 6D are 6 very very fine and light lashes applied to each natural lash.

Russian Lashes

Russian Lashes can take 2 – 4 hours to apply a full set and will cost slightly more. This technique takes greater skill and patience but is a bespoke service because they can be completely tailored to you. Each fan can be created differently to suit the particular area of the lash line and the clients desired look.

Variations of Russian Lashes:

  • Russian Layering – this is used to create a natural or dramatic style depending on your requirements. It gives greater volume that still feels light and natural. This style can give either a natural or a glamorous look with 3 -10 lashes per natural lash. Different lengths, thickness and curls are available to create the look.

  • Russian Varia – where varied lengths are used within each fan giving a soft and fluffy look with fullness at the base but a delicate edge at the tip. These lashes are a softer volume using 3 – 6 lashes per natural lash

  • Russian Shadow – use a varied curl within each fan to create a 3 dimensional look and gives a lifted look.

What to do before and after your treatment

Patch Tests

It is salon practice to always patch test a client for the adhesive 24/48 hours before the treatment. 2 or 3 lashes are applied to the eye to make sure you do not have any allergic reactions to the products we use.

Contraindications

There are some contraindications (a pre-existing medical condition that could put you at risk) that may mean you are unable to have this treatment.

  • Pregnancy – I would not advise a new set on any pregnant client in the first 12 weeks of pregnancy. Later in your pregnancy you may struggle to lay down so we will keep you sat up slightly.

  • Eyelash tints should be done 24/48 hours before the treatment

  • Dry eye

  • Styes

  • Watery eye

  • Bruising

  • Body & head lice

  • Infective conjunctivitis

  • Inflammation of the eye

  • Recent scar tissue – Should be at least 6 months old before Eyelash Extensions are applied

  • Semi permanent makeup, facial piercings or tattoos – should be fully healed

  • Medication

    • Topical & Oral Retinoids, Steroid Cream (you must have stopped taking the medication for 6 months before the treatment)

    • Retina A (you must have stopped taking these 3 – 4 weeks before the treatment)

Aftercare Advice

  • Keep your lashes clean ideally using the cleansing products we recommend and retail.

  • Gently comb your lashes each day

  • Avoid mascara or use only the mascaras we recommend

  • Do not use cotton wool or face wipes to clean the lashes

  • Return for infills 2 – 3 weekly

  • Avoid all heat treatments i.e. steam room, sauna or sunbed for 48 hours

  • Avoid oily products while you have Eyelash Extensions

  • If you have any itching or irritation from the Eyelash Extensions you should contact us immediately or a pharmacy or GP

  • No picking or rubbing the lashes

  • No perming or tinting the lashes

  • Do not use lash curlers

  • It is normal for some lashes to fall out during the first 24 hours while the adhesive is setting. Take extra care during this period.

Retail Recommendations

Lash Perfect – Finishing Glaze

Has a high moisture content that hydrates the lashes while adding a beautiful sheen to both natural lashes and extensions. It also helps to seal the adhesive bond after lash treatments. It is ideal to use daily to tame the lashes and what’s more there’s no need to remove it! It can also be used to style brows and keep them in place (BONUS)

Lash Perfect Mascara

Soft creamy consistency perfect for creating a voluminous lash look. This mascara is ideal for applying to both eyelash extensions and natural lashes. Gives instant volume with just one sweep or can be built up in layers to give varying levels of volume

  • Oil free

  • Smudge proof formula

  • Eyelash Extension friendly

  • Not recommended for Volume or Russian Lashes

Lash Perfect Mascara with Lash Enhancing Serum

Combines high quality mascara and enhancing peptide which gives up to a 35% increase in lash density within 6 weeks. It helps to condition the hair giving the appearance of an increase in length and thickness.

  • Contains enhancing peptides to increase lash density

  • Gives appearance of increased length and thickness

  • Eyelash Extension friendly

  • Not recommended with Volume and Russian lashes

  • Oil free

  • Smudge proof formula

Lash Perfect Lift Off Foaming Cleanser & Cleansing Brush

This gentle oil free makeup remover works quickly and effectively to remove all eye makeup and is Eyelash Extension friendly.

  • Dispense the lift off foaming cleanser onto the cleansing brush and carefully brush the lashes to remove makeup without causing damage to the natural lashes or extensions

Lashbase Final Eyes

A fast drying makeup remover specially created for lash extension wearers. The mascara wand tip and gentle makeup removing solution make this product perfect for removing excess makeup from your lashes. It could be used at the end of the day or after applying your makeup in the morning, without affecting your makeup look, to remove excess eyeliner or eyeshadow that may have been caught by your lashes. This product is suitable for all Eyelash Extensions including Volume and Russian lashes.